Magnifies while you hold the right mouse button.
Off leaves the right button and the wheel to the game.
Live preview
Holds the lens up while this window is open, so
magnification and colour can be judged as you drag them. It covers
what is behind this window, which is why it is off unless you
ask.
Magnification
Where the lens starts. The zoom gesture under Controls
changes it live.
Lens
A circle uses the shorter side of the lens and a
hexagon a little more, so both show less than the rectangles.
Bordersoftens the stepped edge
Colour
Filter
Applied to the magnified image and nothing else —
the crosshair, the radar and the rest of the screen are untouched.
Colour visionmoves hues a deficient eye cannot separate
Which one do I want?
The top row changes the scene. Grey drops the
foliage colour that hides a body shape, Contrast lifts a
figure off flat terrain — at the price of crushing the deepest
shadows to black — and Vivid pushes a coloured skin away from
the ground it is standing on.
The bottom row changes the hue, for the roughly one man in
twelve with a colour deficiency. These are corrections rather than
simulations: Protan and Deutan pull apart the reds and
greens that otherwise collapse into each other, Tritan the
blues and yellows. Pick the one that matches yours, then bring
Strength down until the rest of the picture stops looking
wrong.
Strength
Controls
Show the lens
Hold the right mouse button. This one is the lens
itself rather than a shortcut, so it is not rebindable.
RMB
Zoom in
Click, then do the gesture. Hold Shift as well while
you set it and the bare wheel goes back to the game, so weapon
switching keeps working while you aim.
Zoom out
Click, then do the gesture.
Make the lens bigger
Click, then do the gesture.
Make the lens smaller
Click, then do the gesture.
Invert colours
Stacks on top of the lens filter rather than
replacing it, and is never saved — it is off again next
launch.
Behaviour
Only in games
Magnify just while the mouse cursor is hidden. Turn
off to zoom on the desktop too, and to keep the crosshair and radar
up in a game that shows its cursor.
Crosshair
A marker at the centre of the screen while you are
not zoomed.
Preset
A starting point — every setting on this page stays
editable afterwards. Hover a tile for its numbers.
Style
Shown whenever you are not zoomed.
Size
Thickness
Centre gap
Gapped cross only. Capped by Size.
Opacity
Colour
With a red-green colour deficiency, cyan, magenta,
white and black stay clearly apart; lime, green and orange all shift
toward yellow and get hard to tell from each other.
Hide crosshair while aiming
Hides the centre mark while the right mouse button is held. The threat ring has its own switch on this page.
Share code
The six crosshair settings on this page, as a short
code. Paste someone else's in to use theirs.
Threat ringthe sound radar, drawn on the crosshair
Threat ring
Marks what the sound radar hears around the crosshair,
so a direction lands where you are already looking instead of in the
corner of the screen. Needs the radar switched on.
Hide ring while aiming
Off by default, and deliberately: the reason the
centre mark hides is that it stops lining up with a magnified
image, and a direction has nothing to line up with. Turn it on if
you would rather have the sight picture clear.
Sound radar
Shows which side footsteps come from. Off stops it
reading audio at all.
Checking audio…
Face
Ring sits around your crosshair. Compass reads
more exactly and carries the spectrum, but costs a glance.
Why does the arrow never point behind me?
Left and right are measured directly, so an
arrow only ever points into the half in front of you. Behind is
a separate and much weaker question, worked out from how bright a
sound is: when a contact really reads as behind you, the dot at the
bottom of the face lights and fades. When the radar cannot tell,
the dot simply stays dark rather than guessing — and it needs a few
footsteps after you start before it will commit to anything.
Position
Placing it exactly
While this window is open the radar is live and can
be picked up — grab it and put it down wherever you want.
Click into a game and the face stays on screen, and stays movable
— put it where it belongs against the thing you will actually be
looking at.
Listen for
Footsteps narrows to the range movement lives in.
Everything also counts gunfire, vehicles and doors.
Does a wider range blur the direction?
No. Left/right stays just as sharp either way
— the bearing is always read from the low end of whatever
arrives, however wide the range is opened.
Drag the edges to change the range, or drag
inside it to move the whole band. The grey bars either side are the
roll-off — those frequencies still partly get through.
The default covers footsteps and movement. You can put it anywhere on
the scale instead — high up for gunfire, low down for vehicles and
explosions. The scale stops at 40 Hz and 16 kHz on purpose: outside
those a sound carries no usable direction, so there would be nothing
to select. Bear in mind that left/right gets less
precise above about 1.5 kHz: your head is smaller than those
wavelengths, so above there the radar works from loudness alone and
the angle is rougher. Widening the range does not break the bearing,
but it does let more of the mix count as an event — Band
strictness is what pulls that back.
Band strictness
How much of a sound has to really be inside that range
before it counts. This is here for a widened range: on the
default footsteps range almost everything loud enough to get through
is already inside the band, so moving this changes very little. Open
the range up towards gunfire or vehicles and it becomes the control
that pulls the extra back — raise it until firefights stop painting
the face. Too high and quieter footsteps go with them.
Front / back trim
Front and back are told apart by brightness — sound
from behind you is duller, because your ears face forward. It is a
weaker cue than left/right and it depends on your headset, so this
shifts the dividing line. If the dot at the bottom keeps lighting for
contacts you can hear are in front, move this down. When the
radar cannot tell, the dot stays dark rather than guessing.
Sensitivity
How readily a sound counts as an event. The background
level is measured continuously from the game's own audio, so a setting
means the same thing in a quiet corner as in a firefight. Too high and
gunfire and music start showing up; too low and quiet steps are
missed.
Looksize, opacity, colour, outline, weight
Size
Opacity
Colour
Dark outline
Weight
Thickens the dark outline and the compass lines. Size
makes the face bigger and Opacity makes it brighter; this is the one
that makes it easier to see rather than just larger.
Keeps the face readable on snow, sand and muzzle
flash. At 0 it is flat colour, which looks cleaner on dark maps only.
While you playmute while firing, hide while aiming
Mute the centre while firing
While you hold fire, blips within 30° of straight
ahead are dropped — that is where your own weapon sits. Only the
centre, and only while you shoot, so footsteps to your sides still
come through during a fight. Leave this on. It is what
actually keeps your own gun off the face: measured on a real
session, every shot landed within 10° of centre.
Hide while aiming
Hides the radar while the right mouse button is
held. Off by default — unlike the crosshair, nothing replaces what it
was telling you.
The radar reads your speaker output — the sound the
game has already mixed — and never a microphone. It listens the whole
time the radar is switched on, including while the face is hidden
because you switched to another program or pressed its shortcut. Switch
it off at the top of this page to stop reading audio at all; the status
there says which it is doing.
Pin a region
Keeps a copy of part of your screen — the minimap,
the killfeed, a round timer — somewhere you can actually see
it.
Region
Getting it exactly on the edges
Click the frame once and the arrow keys nudge it a
pixel at a time, Shift+arrow ten at a time. Hold Ctrl and the
arrows resize it instead of moving it, from the bottom-right
corner — so a minimap can be framed flush to its own border without
touching the mouse.
Size
How much bigger the copy is drawn than the region it
copies. 100% is the same size, just somewhere else — which for
a killfeed at the top of the screen is often the whole point. You can
also pull any corner of the copy on your screen; it does the
same thing as this slider.
Where it sits
Lookborder and its colour
Border
The copy is game pixels sitting on top of other game
pixels, so without a frame there is nothing to say where one stops
and the other starts. Set the colour to None to remove
it entirely.
Border colour
Shares the swatches you have mixed everywhere
else.
While you playhide while aiming
Hide while aiming
Take the copy away while the right mouse button is
held. Off by default — unlike the crosshair, this is showing you
something the lens does not, so aiming is not a reason to stop
wanting it.
Why is the copy blank or frozen?
Almost always because the game is running in
exclusive fullscreen. Windows does not compose that through the
desktop, so nothing outside the game can read its pixels — the same
reason the zoom lens shows nothing in those games. Switching the game
to borderless or windowed fullscreen fixes it, and costs
nothing measurable on any modern machine.
It can also be blank simply because the region you framed is blank —
drop this window on top of it and check what is actually there.
Keeping the footsteps
Audio effect
Tames gunfire and lifts footsteps by working on the
sound itself. Needs setting up once, below.
Checking…
Which output
Tame gunfire
Turns the gun down without turning the footsteps
down with it — it works on the sound itself rather than on the
volume, so it can tell the two apart.
Lift the footsteps
Brings quiet footsteps up towards loud ones, so a
distant enemy sounds closer to a near one. Works with whichever
setting you picked above. It lifts the whole range footsteps live
in — room noise and voices too — so more is not simply
better.
Why can it not do both?
Because a gunshot and a footstep are not in
completely different places. About a fifth of a gunshot's energy
sits in the same band the footsteps live in, so past roughly 7 dB
the only way left to make the gun quieter is to lean on that band —
which is the same act as making footsteps quieter. Measured, on real
gameplay, and it is not a setting anybody has failed to find: it is
where the two sounds overlap.
So the three above are the choice, not a quality ladder.
Protect is the quietest gun and it costs you the footsteps.
Clarity keeps almost every footstep and protects you least.
Balanced gets nearly all of Protect's quiet for a fraction of
the cost, which is why it is the one to try first.
What does lifting the footsteps do?
The four settings on this page decide how much of the
footsteps you give up to make the gun quieter. That is a different
question from how loud the footsteps arrive in the first place, and
this is the second one. It is worth having because there is nowhere
else left to find it — Windows' own volume is close to its top
already.
It works with all four, not just one, and Protect is the
setting it helps most: on its own, Protect leaves footsteps quieter
than switching the effect off altogether.
It does this by bringing the quiet part of that range up
towards the loud part, rather than simply turning the whole thing
up — turning it all up would make the gunfire louder too and
reveal nothing new. A side effect worth knowing: because of how it
works, High leaves less gunfire in with the
footsteps than Medium does, not more.
The catch is that the room comes up with them — background
noise and voices in that same range — and that near and far
footsteps sound a little more alike, so loudness tells you less
about distance. Direction is unaffected. The effect will not let
any of it get loud enough to distort.
Max is a different bargain from the other three and worth
knowing before you pick it: it is much louder, which is what you
want while you are hunting a quiet map, but it is the only step
that makes footsteps harder to hear while the shooting is
actually happening. If you spend more time in firefights than
stalking, High is the better setting.
How is this different from Cap loud sounds?
The cap turns everything down at once,
because volume is the only control it has. This changes the sound by
frequency, so it can hold the gun down and let the footsteps
through. On the same recording, both take about 8 dB off the
gunfire — the cap takes 8 dB off the footsteps with it, and
Balanced takes 3.
They are not exclusive. The cap needs nothing installed and catches
anything loud, whatever it is; this needs the effect installed and
is tuned for gunfire.
Can each game have its own?
Yes — this travels in a profile, so a game that
loads its own settings brings its own mode with it. An
ear-splitting shooter and a quiet extraction game do not want the
same answer.
Turning the volume down
Cap loud sounds
Holds the volume down while something is louder than
you asked for — an explosion, a flashbang — and lets it straight back
up afterwards.
Not listening
Keep it under
How loud things are allowed to get. Drag left for a
quieter ceiling — anything above it is pulled down to meet it, and held
there for a few seconds rather than springing straight back. All the
way left takes the volume to the bottom of its range, so a loud moment
is silenced rather than softened.
Why does it not stop the very first crack of a gunshot?
Because it is reading the sound Windows has already
sent to your headset, so it hears a bang a hundredth of a second
after you do. Nothing it does can catch the leading edge — what it
catches is the part that goes on hurting, which is the part that
makes an evening painful.
Does this make the radar worse?
No, and not by luck. What the radar listens to is
tapped before the volume control, so it still hears the sound
at full strength while your ears get the capped version. Turning
this up costs the radar nothing.
Why not squash everything, like a loudness setting?
Because how loud a footstep is is how you
judge its distance. Flatten that and everything sounds close, which
is the same reason a lot of players switch spatial audio off. This is
set to catch what actually hurts and leave the rest alone.
It moves my Windows volume
It does — that is the control it uses, so you will
see the slider move. Move it yourself at any time and it takes your
new level as the one to work from. If the app ever stops while it is
holding the volume down, the next start puts it back.
Windowhow this settings window is laid out
Layout
Dashboard puts every section in a rail down
the side and the page beside it, so the whole program is on screen
at once. List shows the sections as a page you pick from and
come back to, one column at a time.
Overlays
Only while a game is in front
Hide the crosshair and radar when you switch to the
desktop or to another program. Leave it on unless you want them over
everything.
Desktop mode
Use the magnifier and the radar outside games — on
the desktop, in a call, anywhere. Turns off both the switch above
and Only in games on the Zoomer page.
Startup
Start minimized in tray
Launch straight to the tray instead of opening this
window. Takes effect next launch — Save first.
Shortcuts
Pause everything
The same as the Active switch at the top of this
window. Nothing is saved.
Quit
Click, then press the combination. The gear
has its options.
Hide crosshair for now
Temporary: never saved, and undone when this
window opens. Click to set the combination.
Hide radar for now
Temporary: never saved, and undone when this
window opens. Click to set the combination.
Hide pinned region for now
Temporary: never saved, and undone when this
window opens. Click to set the combination.
Pause the loudness cap
Temporary: never saved, and undone when this
window opens. Click to set the combination.
Next profile
Steps through the saved profiles. Unset by
default — click, then press the combination.
Lens size, pacing and zoom-step tuning live in
CtrlFlickRecon.json next to the exe. Reset all puts
those back too.
Switch by itself
Follow the game in front
Load a profile when the game you bound it to comes
to the front, and put your usual settings back when you leave
it.
How does it know which game it is?
By the window: its title and its type, both read straight off the
window itself. This app never asks Windows what program is behind it
and never opens it — that is the kind of look-inside-another-program
behaviour anti-cheat is built to notice, and it is not worth doing to
save you a keystroke.
The cost is honest: a game that writes a score, a map or a player
count into its title bar changes its own name as you play, and a
binding made against one of those will not match. If a game never
switches, that is why — use the shortcut on the General page
instead.
Looks
Pick the window to load it for. Alt-tab out of the
game first — it stays in this list once you have.
Make another
New from these settings
Copies everything as it is set right now into a new
look, and switches you to it. Letters, digits, spaces, hyphen and
underscore.
Share this setup
Your code
How both overlays look, plus the radar tuning, as
they are set right now. Anything still at its default is left out,
so a code only carries what you actually changed.
Paste one in
Nothing moves until you have read what it would
change and pressed Apply.
A code carries the look of both overlays and the radar
tuning — the things worth copying from somebody who has already got
them right. It carries neither your shortcuts nor your saved
colours, which stay with the app, and it also leaves out where the
radar sits, how big the lens is and everything under the bonnet: those
describe a screen and a machine rather than a setup, and somebody else's
are unlikely to fit yours. Applying one changes the settings but saves
nothing — save it as a profile to keep it.
A look carries the whole of the Zoomer, Crosshair, Sound
radar and Pinned region pages. Three things never travel with one, and
stay with the app instead: your shortcuts, because a look that
rebound your quit key would be a trap you could not read your way out of;
your saved colours, which are your own library rather than part of
any one look; and Follow the game in front, since a look that
turned automatic switching off as it loaded would be one you could
never leave.
Those three are saved to Everyday whichever row you are on.
Is the overlay reaching your game?
Test overlay
Holds the crosshair and radar on for ten seconds,
even while another program is in front. Start it, switch to your
game, and look.
Checking…
If you saw nothing
Set the game to Borderless Windowed rather than
Fullscreen. A true fullscreen-exclusive game takes the screen over
completely and no overlay can draw on it — this one, or anybody's.
If the game runs as administrator, run CtrlFlick Recon as
administrator too, or Windows will keep the overlay underneath it.
Check the switch at the top of this window says
Active, and that the feature is switched on at the top of its own
page. Opening this window also undoes any shortcut that hid one overlay
for the moment.
This PC
Runs until
—
Licence key
—
Machine
—
Renewing
Renew this licence
Opens the shop in your browser. Renewing
adds to the time you have left — same key, same PC, nothing to enter
again.
Moving to another PC? Start CtrlFlick Recon there and enter this
key — it will offer to move the licence across. One PC at a time.
0
0
0
The colour changes as you drag, on the overlay itself —
click into a game to judge it there and it stays up. Save adds
it to both rows; right-click a saved swatch to remove it.